www.wherejacwanders.com – Travelling to a place you’ve been to before has a whole new vibe to going somewhere for the first time. I was so excited heading back to Stockholm this trip because I loved it so much last year and there was still so much I wanted to see. There were also many places I’d been before that I couldn’t wait to get back to. Up at the top of my list was ‘fika’. Here are a few of my Stockholm favourite fika spots revisited and some new ones too.
Fika is a Swedish must do. Fika basically means to meet up for a coffee and a piece of cake or pastry, and a fik is slang for a café, bakery or pastry shop. Fika is really about slowing down. It’s about taking the time to appreciate the good things in life. It is a time of the day to look forward to where everything else stops and you slow down. Going for a fika at a fik is a very Swedish thing.
First stop was Vete-Katten. This Stockholm institution serves a range of freshly baked bread and cakes. Once again walking in felt like stepping into my nan’s lounge room. Of course we couldn’t go past kanelbulle to start. Indeed, the kanelbulle or cinnamon bun is so important for Swedish culture that since 1999 a whole day (4th of October) – Kanelbullens Dag – is devoted to this pastry! Then there was kardemummabullar, with its cardamon flavour.
Although it was summer when we were there this visit, the weather was still quite cool, especially later in the day so we were excited to get back to Kafe 44 and snuggle into its warmth and enjoy some delicious vegan and vegetarian food. This cool underground cafe was just as inviting as we remembered and the same staff looked after us in such a friendly way.
Kafé 44 is a café and concert place on Tjarhovsgatan 46 Stockholm, Sweden. The café is operated by three non-profit groups that together run the café: Bokhandeln INFO, Dagfiket and Scen 44. INFO is an anarchist bookstore, Dagfiket is the café open during the days and finally Scen 44 is the part that handles concerts and runs the café during concerts. The place is part of the building Kapsylen, an old bottling plant that is cooperately owned. Kafe 44 is also a popular place for anarchists, socialists and anti- fascists.
Since our last visit they’ve painted a fabulous new mural and we love the graffiti of a woman hitting a Neo-Nazi with her handbag! “The woman with the handbag” is a photograph taken in Växjö, Sweden on 13 April 1985 by Hans Runesson. It depicts a 38-year-old woman hitting a marching neo-nazi with a handbag. The photograph was taken during a demonstration of the Nordic Reich Party supporters. It was published in the next day’s Dagens Nyheter and a day later in some British newspapers. Runesson’s photograph was selected as the Swedish Picture of the Year (Årets bild) 1985 and later as the Picture of the Century by the magazine Vi and the Photographic Historical Society of Sweden. The woman in the photograph is Danuta Danielsson (1947–1988). Not much is known of her as Danielsson did not want to come out in public and speak to journalists. She was of Polish origin and her mother had been in a German concentration camp during World War II.
Fabrique was another favourite spot for kanelbulle so we were excited when we came across one of their stores in a Stockholm train station. Of course we grabbed kanelbulle and coffee, a perfect start to a day of Stockholm adventures.
Cafe Uddvillan was a ‘must visit’ this trip. Last trip Bowie had planned to take me here for my birthday after seeing it online but it was already closed when we got there. He kept his promise and treated me to a yummy brunch. the food was typical Swedish and we loved the old world charm and lake views.
Johan & Nyström
We also found a new favourite spot this visit, Johan & Nyström, which is located in Södermalm. According to their webpage the cafe was founded by a group of coffee-loving friends with “the vision of a better coffee world.” and with a mission to promote the craft by roasting tastier, more fun and more sustainable coffee. Coffee was amazing so we headed back a few times during our month there. We also loved their decor and sitting out the front watching the cool crowd of Mariatorget passing by.
So the cafes in Stockholm certainly didn’t disappoint and lived up to our great memories. There was a different vibe in the summer to the winter but I definitely think anytime is a good time to fika.